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Winch Warranty's who to support and when to walk, WARN,Smittybilt,Runva,Ironman,Tmax etc

Discussion in 'General 4x4 Discussion' started by Swaggie, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. Spooner

    Spooner Well-Known Member

    This is Interesting Rope Comparo
    I don't care either way really what is the best in Internet Advertisng
    But I have flogged my TJM 9500 rope winch a lot in the last year and a half since i had it fitted.
    True that I don't like the remote control as it has 1-3 seconds lag ( non response ) time running in or out and could never trust using it as I don't like the feel of button pushing vs direct action , but the plug in hand held unit works AOK and is always my preferred option even though I have to hold it in my hand through the window LOL.
    Thug likes this.
  2. Hoyks

    Hoyks Active Member

    I had my Carbon Winch arrive today. It looks well made and the 12K model I got has a breather hose fitted that isn't mentioned in the spec sheets.
    The weight, I don't have any scales handy, but the 25kg would be about right.
    Aaron Schubert likes this.
  3. Hoyks

    Hoyks Active Member

    I've been meaning to get a winch for a while now, and finally got one on Friday. [​IMG]

    I have a Tuff-Pull (Tirfor style) cable winch, but it is too much like hard work. Most times I have used it I only needed to pull forward about 1m to get out of trouble, but the whole rolling out the full 20m of cable, rigging straps and shackles, running cable through the winch, taking up the tension, pulling 1m, running cable back out of the winch and rolling it back up again and stowing everything away gets a bit tiresome. It does improve your driving though, anything to avoid going through that rigmarole[​IMG] .

    I bought a 12K Carbon Winch, was tossing up between a 11XP Runva Premium, but the week before I planning on actually buying it the price went up $250[​IMG] . Carbon had similar specs, similar warranty, was $80 cheaper and I found a place with them with a promo $250 light bar as a free gift[​IMG] .

    Fitting it was a bit of a learning curve as I haven't done a winch before, I'm also away from home so don't have access to most of my tools and stuff, which is a bit of a pain. In the end all I needed was a hammer, sidecutters (to trim up all my zip ties) and 4 or 5 spanners/sockets.

    I was all tooled up to pull the bull bar, but found that pulling the grill out gave enough room to drop the winch in from the top. 5 plastic plugs and 2 clips and it was out. So much easier.

    So, after putting it in, pulling it out, reinstalling, etc. I tried wiring it up, but access to the terminals was a pain... so I pulled it out again. It was so much easier to connect all the cables with it on the bench... unfortunately I don't have a bench where I am at the moment, so was working on a sheet of cardboard on the floor. The gearbox got rotated so that the clutch was accessible from the access holes in the bull bar and while I was in there I chucked in some extra grease.

    The motor housing with all the cables attached and ziptied/bundled together so they don't rub then dropped into the gap and was bolted down. The cables had enough length to reach the battery, although I do want to add a isolator switch in the near future.

    The control box bracket didn't put it in the location that I would have liked and fowled the bull bar if mounted on the front and mounted on the top you can't actually connect the control cable due to the grill mount bracket. It does have a wireless remote which I will use until I get around to rejigging everything. If the wireless remote dies at an inconvenient time, 5 plastic plugs and 2 x 10mm bolts and I can connect the control cable.

    The fairlead is a good design, it is reverseable and offset, so if your cable slot doesn't align with the winch you can flip the fairlead and use the alternate bolt holes to make it line up.
    All up it took me about 4 hrs (including lunch), but next time I come to service the winch it will be a lot quicker. To take it out again is quite simple; 10 bolts and 5 plastic plugs. Tomorrow I will take the ute out and wind the cable on under tension so its ready to be used in anger
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
    slivertoy likes this.
  4. komaterpillar

    komaterpillar Well-Known Member

    Runva 11xp winch with no rope weighs 23.4kg

    Swaggie likes this.
  5. Ian Christensen

    Ian Christensen New Member

    Thanks for that.
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2017
  6. Hugh Jarse

    Hugh Jarse Member

    What a fantastic read............I have been out and about and found out that only one winch sold in Australia at present offers an IP68 warranty, that winch is a VRS .I have researched the difference between IP67 and IP68 and it is significant relating to the water ingress issue.
    Just a heads up in relation to the excellent work done by Swaggie.;)
    Swaggie likes this.
  7. shaun0

    shaun0 Member

    Did you ask about Smittybilt as they are IP68 no idea about warranty though
  8. Hugh Jarse

    Hugh Jarse Member

    OOps.....i was wrong and you are correct Sir.....The new X20 and the comp version Smittybilt are IP 68.....
  9. GaryM

    GaryM Well-Known Member

    Id like to see the certification report, and by that i mean not just the claim.
  10. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    As stated previously they wouldn't reply to my emails to confirm there water ingress policy...
    Hugh Jarse and GaryM like this.
  11. komaterpillar

    komaterpillar Well-Known Member

    Winches That Won't Free Spool!

    What's with winch's having to be "powered out" as in not free spooling when the clutch is in neutral. My Runva 11xp has never had this issue and free spools no worries at all with the clutch in neutral but on a couple of recent trips I've been with a couple of different vehicles that have winch's that absolutely will not free spool. One was a brand new Tigerz dominator in an ARB bar - only been used a handful of times and apparently has never free spooled, another was a Superwinch (factory Toyota fitted and about 9 years old) in a factory Toyota winch bar also super tight to free spool - who knows the history of this winch as it was the first time old mate had ever used it and he was clueless about it, another Tigerz winch in a TJM bar, and nearly every fourby video on YouTube has them powering the winch out rather than free spooling when rigging it all up.
    Again I've never had this problem with the Runva.
    I've got a couple of theories....
    Poor mounting? where the pedestals on the housings at either end are not being bolted down square and the drum is binding up between them? not a problem with mine as the winch mount is all square
    maybe the bar work has deformed from winching (which I've personally seen a number of times) and binding up the winch drum? also not a problem with my winch bar as the winch mount in my bar is 40x40 5mm wall SHS and 8mm plate - no distortion there
    or is the winch gearbox just full of super tacky grease and when free spooling you have the gearboxes reduction working against you as you try and turn the drum? pulled mine apart when it was brand new and repacked the gearbox and lubed the drum bushings
    or is it lack of maintenance and the whole gearbox and drum bushings just binding up? also not a problem with mine as I've stripped the whole thing a couple of times now and replaced a fair few components.

    Not trying to say I'm awesome or attention whoring with what I've done with my gear - just spit balling on why it might be that so many winches won't free spool as rigging up a winch line up a hill climb you can't walk up or bottomless mud is already a shit job made more shit by having to pull on a bloody winch line that has to be powered out the whole way and is slower than a wet week.

    On the maintenance note it blows me away the people I've talked to who are oblivious to the fact that a winch needs servicing. "nah she'll be right, as long as it works when I want to use it thats all that matters"
    hmmm well odds are it probably won't - and then "x" brand of winch will be labelled as a heap of shit and unreliable
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2017
    tankbloke likes this.
  12. Mr Rum

    Mr Rum Well-Known Member

    With my limited experience, I’m going to go out on a limb and say it’s often likely due to poor maintenance.

    I’ve only ever had the one winch, a Toyota supplied Superwinch that I fitted early last year. Being my first winch it’s all I’ve known, so I wouldn’t know if it’s easy to pull out or not, except I’ve actually had a couple of people comment as I’ve walked it out saying they’d never seen one come out so easily.

    Since then, I’ve helped my brother with his Warn after he had clutch issues. It was on the car when he bought it, so we have no idea about it’s past, but it did all work at first. It took a bit of effort to spoil out though, and before he got around to checking it out, the clutch decided it wouldn’t disengage.
    This meant, of the three times he needed it that day, he ran it out the slow way twice, and not keen to do it a third time, sweet talked me into pulling out mine to drag him through.

    When he pulled it apart to see what the go was, the clutch was rusted solid, and there was a tide line on everything inside.
    He chose to rebuild it, new parts where needed, and though he still doesn’t reckon it’s as free as my Superwinch, it’s not far off it since the repairs.

    And after seeing our two winches in action, our old man chose to get a Superwinch for himself, and it free spools the same as mine.
  13. dno67

    dno67 Well-Known Member

    Mine is really hard to pull out free spooling, mainly due to the amount of thick
    grease I put inside of it. Was very easy before I filled it with grease.
    Mr Rum and smitty_r51 like this.
  14. Marck

    Marck Well-Known Member

    What grease do you recommend my carbon winch is coming out for a service after the next trip to Fraser it’s a first generation unit so I want to tap a breather and a couple of grease nippels into it so I don’t have to pull it out for a basic service.
  15. GaryM

    GaryM Well-Known Member

    When i looked into swapping the factory grease as I had read Chinese grease has been found with metal swath and the like in it... so best to change from outset.
    ...advice from Runva was nothing too thick or heavy, but not runny, but they had no specific recommendations apart from that.

    Id want wateproof, and heat resistant for sure, but most grease is bad for rubber ... such as seals and rubber gaskets. Keep in mind moly is not good for bearings as it makes them slide more than roll, which has to make for less round bearings/needles over time, maybe. Its right for say bushing and slip joints (so gears and shafts) etc but technically not for winch bearings I would think.

    So I ended up talking with an old guy at an oil distributor near me, and the conclusion was a Castrol grease and its blue. I think its EDP, Ill look when I go to the shed later and edit based on his recommendation. He had never picked a grease for a winch either but tended to agree with what I said so tried to find a grease that fit as much of that as possible.

    But I think I will use a ruibber grease to keep the seals right and trust that grease is good, if its clean. So long as it lubes well, its not like it will run for hours. The seals seem the most sensitve part to consider.

    Edit: Just back from my shed, its the replacement for LMX.
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2017
  16. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Your best off using molybdenum disulfide (moly) to reduce wear by maintaining lubrication under conditions of high friction and shock loads.

    Some winches are just harder to freespool even tho they could be brand new and in excellent condition, like my Warn, I don't freespool it, some winches you can freespool with your pinky...
    phs likes this.
  17. dno67

    dno67 Well-Known Member

    I put as much as I could get in there.
    Next time I'll just make sure everything is covered lightly.
    This is what I used.
    Ultra-Duty®Grease is a premium, heavy-duty EP grease containing a high viscosity mineral oil, lithium thickener, effective EP additive, rust and oxidation inhibitors and tackiness agent. Ultra-Duty®Grease has stay-in-place properties that make it particularly suitable for equipment operating in wet, muddy or dusty conditions. Red in color.

    • Outstanding film strength and effective EP additive
    • Extreme tackiness
    • Excellent resistance to water wash out
    • Superior adhesiveness
    • Highly effective rust and corrosion inhibitors
    • Outstanding film strength and effective EP additive protect against component wear under severe conditions and shock loading
    • Extreme tackiness maintains sealing collar of grease around bushings which prevents the ingress of abrasive dirt
    • Excellent resistance to water wash out ensures lubrication is maintained under extremely wet and muddy conditions
    • Superior adhesiveness ensures grease stays in place and resists leakage, even in the most severe and shock load conditions, making it possible to extend relubrication intervals
    • Highly effective rust and corrosion inhibitors protect metal surfaces, even under extremely wet conditions
  18. Swaggie

    Swaggie Moderator

    Of course they don't talk about water ingress and warranties regarding this which is crucial when mild steel is involved.. I still cannot get a clear answer off any manufacturer as to why they won't use the CRC Electro paint as protection, oh I'll get back to you on it.. Lol, my Warn has lasted 3 years since using it including many river crossings, plus I believe the breather helps instead of failing every 3 months from new...
    Does any member have the results of this text...

  19. Thug

    Thug Active Member

    Well there you go my money well spent! Thanks for the vid.
    Swaggie likes this.
  20. hiluxdriver

    hiluxdriver Well-Known Member

    Test was printed in issue 404, Sept 2017. Runva EWX was the winner, TJM TORQ was runner up
    Thug, komaterpillar and smitty_r51 like this.

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